Lamb Ragu with Tagliatelle

Amounts and times written inside the steps are for the original quantity.

Day 1: Time to braise the lamb

1. The ideal cut for this braise is a bone-in lamb shoulder. If you can't find one-if the butcher only has tied-up boneless shoulder, that's fine; just augment it by buying a pound or so of bones (anything - a couple of marrow bones, a veal shin, a lamb shank) and cook them alongside the meat.

2. 01
   Heat the oven to 450°F. Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. Put it on a baking sheet and pop it into the oven. (If you are using bones in place of stock, they should be roasted alongside the meat and then discarded after the meat's been braised.) Roast the lamb until the exterior is deeply browned, about 45 minutes; flip it once mid-roast if you think of it. Remove the lamb to a platter to rest. Turn the oven down to 300°F.
3. 02
   While the lamb is roasting, heat the grapeseed oil in your widest skillet or saute pan over high heat for 1 minute, then add the onion, carrot, celery, and fennel and turn the heat down to medium-high. Add a large pinch of salt and saute until the mass of vegetables has shrunk and begun to take on a golden caramel color and is browning in spots, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.
4. 03
   Put the lamb shoulder in a 6 or 8 quart heavy-bottomed ovenproof pot-something that will hold it, the aromatics, and the stock snugly. Add the cooked vegetables and parsley stems. Crush the tomatoes with your hands right over the pot and nestle them into it. Add the stock; it should nearly but not quite cover the meat. Cover the pot, pop it into the oven and braise the lamb for 2 hours - at which point the meat should yield uncomplainingly to the tugging of a fork.
5. 04
   Remove the meat from the stock and let it rest and regain its composure. Strain the stock into a container (or two), lightly pressing on the vegetables in the strainer to wring out any flavor left in them. Discard the spent vegetables and parsley stems. Cover and refrigerate the broth.
6. 05
   Use two forks to pull the lamb apart into fine ropy shreds, as you would for pulled pork. Discard any big chunks of gristle or fat (or save them for your dog), pack the pulled meat into a bowl or other container, cover it, and put it in the fridge.

Day 2: Time to eat

1. 01
   Remove the stock from the refrigerator and skin/scrape off the pale, hardened layer of fat that has formed on its surface. Put it in a largish braising pot, maybe the same one you braised the shoulder in. Add the tomato sauce (or tomatoes), put the pot over medium-high heat, and simmer the broth and tomato sauce for 15 minutes, so they get a chance to know each other. (If you're substituting canned tomatoes, give them 30 to 45 minutes with the broth.) Put a large pot of water (for the pasta) on the stove to boil and salt it well.
2. 02
   Add the lamb to the sauce and stir to distribute it well. Warm it for 5 to 10 minutes, or just until it's heated through. (If you're going to reserve some of the sauce to freeze it, now's the time. Adjust your deployment of butter, herbs, and seasoning accordingly.)
3. 03
   Cook the pasta; it might be best to cook it in two shifts.
4. 04
   While the pasta is boiling, raise the heat under the ragu to high and add the parsley, butter, ½ teaspoon salt, and white pepper. Stir to distribute the flavors and ensure the butter melts. Taste the sauce and add more salt if needed.
5. 05
   When the pasta's ready, drain and add to the pot of lamb sauce. Stir well and let sit for a minute or so in the sauce to soak up some flavor.
6. 06
   Portion the pasta among individual plates or mound it on a serving platter. Shower it with the fresh tarragon, splash on some olive oil, and serve.

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